News

Paradise Unplugged
Ten Caribbean hideaways that beckon with bygone charm and beaches where the
only footprints in the sand may be yours.

(By Joe Yogerst) Going back more than a century, to the days when banana boats whisked the first upscale tourists down from the Eastern Seaboard, the Caribbean has been a classic place to escape in style. Princess Margaret and the Aga Khan. Audrey Hepburn and Errol Flynn. The Rockefellers, Rothschilds, and so many other well-heeled families. All of them had their island hideaways, places where they could while away sunny days on the sand and party beneath the starry sky to the sound of steel bands and calypso crooners. Electronic reggae may be the music of choice these days, and there are now far more resorts where you can parasail, Jet Ski, and scuba dive to your heart’s content, but the spirit that has lured veteran escape artists to the region for so long remains the same on a select handful of islands. Beaches where yours are the only footprints and resorts that hone the fine art of pampering. Places where local culture thrives alongside glorious colonial architecture, where the fresh fish on your plate was caught right offshore, and where that really might be Jimmy Buffett sitting next to you at the beachfront bar. Where to find old-school paradise? These ten islands retain their bygone charm.

Barbuda
The Vibe: End-of-the-earth seclusion
The Experience: Beachcombing Palmetto Point

Barbuda is only a 20-minute puddle jump from Antigua, but it’s a thousand miles away in terms of atmosphere and attitude. One of the Caribbean’s least populated landfalls, the island tenders vast stretches of virgin bush, pristine lagoons, and miles of refreshingly empty coast. Palmetto Point is the place for beachcombing, a meandering pink sand beach that wraps around the island’s southwest shore. Striking out from the small resort area, you can walk for hours and not encounter another soul.

Where to Stay: The 21-room Beach House, where every guest receives an arrival massage and his or her own personal assistant for the duration of their stay, perches right on the pink sands of Palmetto Point. Doubles from $1,100, including breakfast and one-way helicopter transfer between Antigua and Barbuda.

Grand Turk, Turks and Caicos Islands
The Vibe: High tea and treasure hunters
The Experience: Diving the Wall

Turks and Caicos still flies the Union Jack, and nowhere is this more evident than Grand Turk, home of the archipelago’s British government and a place where high tea has never gone out of style. As the island was a onetime haunt of pirates and a longtime base for treasure hunters, it’s unsurprising that the National Museum boasts priceless shipwreck relics. Old colonial mansions along the waterfront of Cockburn Town colorfully contrast with the desertlike landscape studded with native Turk’s-head cactus. Only a quarter mile offshore, a scuba-diving icon called the Wall plunges 7,000 feet straight into the deep. Divers also flock to the wreck of the Endymion, an eighteenth-century British warship. Grand Turk is a short flight from Providenciales, or “Provo” Island and its manifold beach resorts.

Where to Stay: Wedged between a nature reserve and a marine national park on the western shore of Provo Island, the 40-room, über-elegant Amanyara brings Asian style and service to Grand Turk. Doubles from $750, including breakfast.

Bequia, The Grenadines
The Vibe: Year-round yachters’ haven
The Experience: Conch, cocktails, and calypso
Its snug harbor filled with sailing craft from around the world, Bequia is the sort of landfall where “boat people” always linger longer than originally planned. What’s not to love about a place with safe anchorage, beaches shaded by coconut palms, and a waterfront lined with some of the best bars in the Caribbean? Smack in the heart of the Grenadines, the isle can be reached by air from Canouan or a one-hour ferry from Saint Vincent.

Where to Stay: Sprawling across two-thirds of Canouan Island, Raffles Resort has everything you need for tropical nirvana, with 156 Mediterranean-inspired rooms, an 18-hole golf course, a luxury spa, and Trump casino. Doubles from $495, including breakfast.

Iles des Saintes, Guadeloupe
The Vibe: French Caribbean au natural
The Experience: Getting comfortable at Anse Crawen
Nowhere in the Caribbean seems more removed from the twenty-first century than the Iles des Saintes, an eight-island archipelago off the coast of Guadeloupe in the French West Indies. Still populated by the descendants of French fishermen who came here centuries ago, the tiny isles unfold as a sort of tropical Brittany where salakos (bamboo hats) and filets bleus (blue fishing nets) are still au courant rather than relics. Connoisseurs of the allover tan still make for secluded Anse Crawen, but there are plenty of other beaches, including long, white-sand Grande Anse and picture-perfect Pain de Sucre with its miniature sugarloaf mountain. Les Saintes are a 15-minute flight from Guadeloupe’s international airport or a 45-minute ferry ride from the Pointe-à-Pitre wharf.

Where to Stay: With just 51 rooms, Jumby Bay, a Rosewood Resort sprawls across a 300-acre private island. Its exclusivity is worth the 30-minute flight and short boat launch to get there. Doubles from $1,250, including meals and a beachside picnic lunch for two.

Port Antonio, Jamaica
The Vibe: Party like it’s 1949
The Experience: Cavorting at Frenchman’s Cove
Port Antonio was once the hippest place in the Caribbean, where the likes of Errol Flynn, Truman Capote, and Audrey Hepburn rubbed elbows with European royals. Framed by lush mountains that plunge almost straight down into the sea, “Porty” retains its favored status among the rich and famous, a tropical getaway for supermodels and rock stars. The mood is little changed from the 1940s when Flynn raised hell on both land and sea – rafting down the Jamaican version of the Rio Grande, sailing off Navy Island, eating jerk pork at Boston Bay, or swimming at Frenchman’s Cove, possibly the most picture-perfect beach in the entire Caribbean. The two-hour drive from Ocho Rios to Port Antonio runs past the seaside manse where Ian Fleming wrote his 007 books (Goldeneye) and the bluff-top retreat where Noel Coward died (Firefly).

Where to Stay: Two hours east of Port Antonio along the coast road in Ocho Rios, the 47-room waterfront Jamaica Inn resort flaunts elegant ways and means in a classic Caribbean seaside setting, complete with its KiYara Ocean Spa. Doubles from $290, including continental breakfast daily and a complimentary bottle of rum.

Montserrat
The Vibe: Emerald Isle, tropical style
The Experience: Venturing into the volcanic zone
The fact that Montserrat is one of the only places on earth outside of Ireland where Saint Patrick’s Day is a public holiday tells you all you need to know about this tiny island’s Celtic heritage. Settled by Irish immigrants nearly 400 years ago, the island is both emerald green (tropical forest filled with native orchids, tree ferns, and colossal philodendrons) and shamrock lucky when you consider how few casualties have resulted from the still-active Soufrière Hills volcano. Learn all about lava at the Montserrat Volcano Observatory and then venture to the edge of the Exclusion Zone for a look at the destruction. Once you’ve had your fill of volcano, feast on the local version of Irish stew (“goat water”) in one of the island’s many pubs. Montserrat is an easy day trip from Antigua, reached via a 15-minute flight.

Where to Stay: Day trips to the Caribbean’s Emerald Isle are easily staged from Curtain Bluff,the 72-room, luxury all-inclusive resort on Antigua, home base for the island’s annual sailing week (April 27 through May 3, 2008) and tennis week (May 4 through 11, 2008). Doubles from $695, including breakfast daily and a $100 resort credit for incidentals.

Dominica
The Vibe: Ultimate eco-Caribbean
The Experience: Hiking the Morne Trois Pitons rain forest
Dominica has turned its pristine highlands into green by leaping on the booming eco-tourism bandwagon. No other Caribbean isle boasts a higher percentage of land devoted to national parks and forest reserves with huge leafy spaces like Morne Trois Pitons, where trails lead to towering cascades and cool emerald pools almost lost in the jungle. Dominica is also home to the last of the Carib Indians, who live on a reserve in the northeast. Whale-watching, black sand beaches, and river trips add to its eco-allure. Although most people stay overnight, the island can be explored as a long day trip from Saint Lucia or Martinique.

Where to Stay: With its open-air suites and commanding views of Saint Lucia’s famous Pitons, staying in one of Ladera Resort’s 27 rooms is like sleeping in the clouds. Doubles from $425, including continental breakfast daily and a 30-minute massage for two at the resort’s Ti Kai Posé Spa.

British Virgin Islands
The Vibe: Barefoot and bareboat
The Experience: Reading Treasure Island where it really happened
The British Virgin Islands are the undisputed champs of bareboat yachting – chartering your own vessel and sailing off without a crew to whatever sandy cove takes your fancy. And there are plenty to choose from in this languid 52-island archipelago. Although pirates were never really their forte, the British Virgin Islands boast one of the most iconic places in buccaneer history: uninhabited Norman Island, where the real-life intrigue that inspired Treasure Island played out in the 1700s. The Caribbean version of the Titanic disaster also unfolded here: the 1867 wreck of the RMS Rhone, now a favorite scuba and snorkel site.

Where to Stay: In addition to sumptuous shore-based digs, the 100-room Little Dix Bay, a Rosewood Resort, offers day sails, powerboat rentals, and private charters on the yacht Bravura. Doubles from $550, including continental breakfast daily and choice of complimentary tennis lessons or a beachside lunch for two.

La Romana, Dominican Republic
The Vibe: Pampering beneath coconut palms
The Experience: Polo picnic with champagne and caviar
The whole of the Dominican Republic is considered one of the undiscovered gems of the Caribbean, and one of its brightest stars is La Romana province, a portion of the southwest coast known for producing some of the world’s finest sugarcane, baseball players, and polo ponies. The region’s eclectic attractions include the Altos de Chavón artist village (shopping, fine dining, and live entertainment), the talcum-powder-fine beaches of Bayahibe, and Winter League baseball in San Pedro de Macorís (Sammy Sosa’s hometown). Offshore isles like Catalina and Saona offer some of the best scuba and snorkeling in the Dominican Republic.

Where to Stay: Considered one of the best places to golf in the entire region, the 454-room Casa de Campo resort also has tennis, horseback riding, and various water sports. Doubles from $178, including breakfast daily.

Long Island, Bahamas
The Vibe: 1492 redux
The Experience: Exploring on the edge
Christopher Columbus came across Long Island in the Bahamas during his first trip in the New World, vividly describing its translucent waters and colorful fish in his logbook. He named the island’s northern tip after his flagship and sailed away to immortality. Nothing of any real significance has happened on the island since 1492, and that’s its charm – a Bahamian outer island that is truly out on the edge, nearly as unspoiled as the day the Spaniards first set foot on it. Local sport fishing and scuba diving are top-notch (especially if you like swimming with sharks). Or you can explore Cape Santa Maria by speedboat or kayak, remote coves where Columbus himself once marveled at the natural splendor. Flights from Nassau take about 25 minutes.

Where to Stay : Perched at the western tip of Grand Bahama Island, the 73-room Old Bahama Bay at Ginn sur Mer mixes barefoot elegance and a secluded out-island feel with modern amenities like a full-service marina and luxury spa. Doubles from $319, including breakfast daily and one complimentary snorkel trip for two.

---

Expert's Advice
Virtuoso's travel advisors share their top island getaways, from tropical havens to cosmopolitan escapes.

15 Island Favorites ...
Hawaii : The 50th state was hands down the most popular choice for tropical bliss, with Maui the top individual island. “Love the beaches, the people, the ambience, the closeness to other islands for day trips, the sun, the golf, the food – I love it all.”

Tahiti: Running a close second was this South Pacific paradise, with Bora-Bora – and its overwater bungalows – receiving the most raves. “The color of the water is truly amazing, and the people are wonderful, very friendly and welcoming. I fell in love with Bora-Bora.”

Anguilla: “On this island in the Lesser Antilles, the people are beautiful on the inside, the beaches are beautiful on the outside, and the food is great too. I love Anguilla so much I’ve brought a boyfriend and two husbands there – not at the same time, of course.”

Saint Bart’s: “It has terrific beaches, amazing restaurants, great live music, and the local people are eclectic and fun. I love to stay in a villa with a pool and visit a different beach each day. It is also a perfect island for celebrity spotting.”

Vancouver Island: “It may not be tropical, but it has so many opportunities to experience nature: temperate rain forest, fjords, wild sea life, storms blowing in off the Pacific. It is one of the world’s most diverse, gorgeous places.”

Fiji: “It’s so remote and romantic. You can walk out of your beachfront bure and hop into the water for a swim or snorkel. The Fijians make a stay very special and are truly the most friendly and hospitable people on earth.”

Barbados: “What better combination is there than white sand and blue sparkling water? Add to that luxurious resorts with fabulous spas and golf courses, loads of colorful festivals, and sunken ships to explore by tank or snorkel, and there’s no reason to go anywhere else.”

Tasmania: “With a third of the island designated as national parkland, the unspoiled scenery is spectacular. From lakes to beaches and forests, you can hike, ride horseback, swim, fish, kayak, scuba dive, and spot wildlife. The island’s cool-climate wines are excellent, and Tassie has some of the nicest people you will find anywhere.”

Easter Island: “The peace and serenity of the place are overwhelming. The guides are fantastic, the food outstanding, the scenery breathtaking, and the people wonderful. The sky is so blue and the ocean even bluer. It’s a great place for couples or families.”

Nevis: “It’s the kind of place where you don’t need those few days to unwind. You can relax as soon as you arrive. A hammock on the beach is all I need, but there are guided hikes, golf and a spa at the Four Seasons, plantation houses to visit or stay at, and a ferry that visits nearby Saint Kitts.”

Aitutaki: “One of the Cook Islands, Aitutaki is one of my favorite places on earth. You can walk in the knee-high water for miles, find conches the size of a sink, feel like you are alone, and totally rejuvenate.”

Bali: “The Balinese radiate a spiritual beauty. I love the emerald green rice paddies, the haunting music of the gamelan, and watching the women balance stacks of fruit on their heads as they glide gracefully toward a Hindu ceremony at one of the mini-temples on the island.”

Bermuda: “There’s so much to see and do, with scenery, history, charm, and year-round temperate weather. Everything is clean, the people are gracious, and it has a great economy.”

Capri: “I love Capri for its great views and Italian charm. If you spend time here, you discover places that entice you to return. It’s wonderful to sit in the piazza and sip an espresso or wander the narrow streets. The pizza here is the best anywhere.”

Santorini: “This Greek isle is always at the top of my list, with its whitewashed cliffside dwellings overlooking that most unusual shade of blue in the caldera. Spend the day sightseeing and shopping; come late afternoon, trek to the village of Oia to watch the sunset, then enjoy a dinner of fabulous local food, topped off with a little singing and dancing!”

…And 5 Island Secrets
Samothraki: “Natural beauty, ancient ruins, and even fortifications left by the Crusaders are the highlights of this little gem, visited mostly by Greeks and still reachable only by ferry. Don’t go if you are looking for nightclubs, spas, or to lounge by a pool. Do go if you like to take your time exploring fascinating places steeped in legend.”

Ischia: “Just off the coast of Naples and an alternative to the more famous Capri, Ischia is a place you will never forget, from volcanic thermal baths to the catacombs of Santa Restituta to pathways leading to the top of Mount Epomeo. The village of Sant’Angelo offers wonderful shops, a long stretch of sandy beach, and a real Italian experience. Bellissimo!”

Manihi: “Life here centers around the sea and its native treasure, the black pearl. If you’ve ever dreamed of picnicking on a deserted island, the turquoise-blue horizon all to yourself and sand soft as talcum powder beneath your toes, then this atoll in the Tuamotu Archipelago is your dream come true.”

Palawan: “This ecological paradise in the Philippines has crystal-clear waters with sea life that’s amazing in its diversity and abundance. It’s great for all levels of divers and snorkelers. For adventurous types, Tubbataha Reef, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is an exciting option for those who want to dive among hammerhead sharks and wrecked warships.”

Los Roques: “This pristine archipelago is a Venezuelan national park and therefore protected from major development. From the main island of Grand Roque, where friendly posadas (inns) offer comfortable lodging and fantastic food, you can take a catamaran to the other islands’ coral reefs, white-sand beaches, and multicolored waters.